The Guardian Top News｜愤怒的公牛：为何Maga正将牛产品强推给美国

从小罗伯特·肯尼迪（RFK Jr.）对牛油的推崇，到班农（Bannon）点烤骨髓的订单，特朗普政府官员正在掀起一股养牛热潮。

美国卫生部长罗伯特·F·肯尼迪声称，牛油是比植物油更健康的选择（尽管美国心脏协会对此持反对意见）。生乳倡导者目前正在批评肯尼迪，尽管他过去曾支持他们放宽全国范围内销售其偏爱的乳制品的限制。与此同时，牛油还悄然进入了持续火热的护肤品市场，被用于润肤霜、润唇膏、除臭剂和个人润滑剂等产品中。

虽然并非所有牛油拥趸或生奶爱好者都自视为共和党人，但牛与罗伯特·肯尼迪（RFK）发起的"健康"运动之间的关联却难以忽视。如今看来，牛已然成为"让美国再次伟大"（Maga）运动最受青睐的动物。

特朗普对牛的喜爱并非秘密。去年，当一名儿童致电《福克斯与朋友们》询问他最喜爱的农场动物时，他答道："我告诉你我喜欢什么，我喜欢牛。但如果让卡玛拉（注：指副总统哈里斯）当选，你们就再也见不到牛了。"他还补充说："我不想破坏这孩子的好心情。"此后，他将这个古怪论点纳入了竞选演说，在北卡罗来纳州和内华达州向人群宣称"他们想推行诸如禁止养牛的政策"。如今他虽已就职，牛（至少其副产品）仍是其关注焦点。

《大西洋月刊》的亚斯明·塔亚格（Yasmin Tayag）本周撰文指出，随着美国人开始对“奶牛养生法”趋之若鹜，“玄学热潮已演变为奶牛热潮”。

圣地亚哥州立大学运动与营养科学教授马克·克恩表示：“在动物产品方面，[Maga]似乎最推崇牛肉。他们对鸡肉或火鸡肉似乎没有同样的评价。”

猪可能紧随其后，因为另一种动物脂肪——猪油，在20世纪初之前也经常用于烹饪。这段逝去的岁月正是马加（Maga）喜欢美化的怀旧时代。

奶牛热潮与推崇烹饪、清洁、育儿和田园生活的传统主妇（tradwives）占据社交媒体空间的趋势相得益彰。如果特朗普将华盛顿、洛杉矶和纽约等城市描述为无政府主义的烈火堡垒，那么奶牛则象征着截然不同的景象：或是双颊红润的孩童提着奶桶的画面，或是身着草原连衣裙的西德妮·斯威尼（Sydney Sweeney）。

当然，这些都不是奶牛的错。"适量食用牛肉是非常健康的食物，"克恩（Kern）表示，"我认可它的营养价值，但这并不意味着我们应该以牺牲植物油为代价来食用它。"他解释道，Maha（让美国再次健康）群体对牛油的痴迷源于一种"误解"，即认为牛油比植物油加工程度更低。"你无法直接从牛身上获取牛油，"他说，"必须通过熬制脂肪来提取，这同样是一个精炼过程。"

尽管目前尚未发现食用牛油的益处，但在罗伯特·肯尼迪（RFK）公开支持后，包括Steak n Shake和Sweetgreen在内的部分连锁餐厅已转而采用这种原料。

巴特·哈钦斯是华盛顿特区新派法式餐厅Butterworth's的主厨，该餐厅深受MAGA（让美国再次伟大）阵营人士的喜爱。上个月，哈钦斯向Axios透露，他的厨房每周要消耗500根牛骨，用于制作烤牛骨髓——这道菜是史蒂夫·班农的“必点”菜品。（马尔科·鲁比奥和Breitbart新闻网的员工显然也对它青睐有加。）

骨髓含有胶原蛋白——这种蛋白质长期以来一直是美容界的流行词，据称对皮肤、头发和指甲健康具有美容功效。尽管皮肤科医生表示尚无研究能明确证实其效果，但胶原蛋白仍是各类宣称能焕活肌肤的药丸和粉末中的常见成分。这并不妨碍富人们对它的追捧。哈钦斯表示："只要标注‘含胶原蛋白’，某个人群就会心甘情愿地掏腰包。"

24岁的营养学学生坎迪丝·雷（Candice Ray）常年往返于加拿大和佛蒙特州之间。在牛油成为Maha身份象征之前，她就已对其青睐有加。两年来她每晚都将牛油厚敷于面部，坚称这使原本粗糙不平的肌肤变得通透净亮。

“这对我来说效果惊人，”雷伊说道，“我的皮肤看起来更健康了。”公平地说，雷伊——一位在Instagram上拥有近35万粉丝、分享“无毒生活”建议的网红——还坚持其他一些医学上存疑的做法，比如不洗脸。

你可能会认为，如果在脸上涂抹牛油并带着它入睡，最终会散发出刺鼻的畜棚气味。但雷伊（Ray）并不认同。我觉得它闻起来只有轻微的泥土气息，她说道。

雷（Ray）对玛格（Maga）致力于推广牛油的做法并不感到特别兴奋。"我选择使用牛油完全与政治无关，"她说。"但当我告诉别人我用牛油时，他们的眼神仿佛在说‘哦，原来你是个崇尚自然生活的女孩’。"

From RFK Jrs beef tallow endorsement to Bannons roasted marrow order, Trump officials are promoting cattle mania

U S health secretary Robert F Kennedy claims that beef tallow is a healthier alternative to seed oils (even though the American Heart Association disagrees ). Raw milk advocates are currently criticizing Kennedy, who has supported them in the past, to ease restrictions on the sale of their preferred dairy product nationwide. Meanwhile, cows have also infiltrated the ever trendy skincare market, with beef tallow present in moisturizers, lip balm, deodorant and personal lubricant.

Though not every beef tallow evangelist or raw milk aficionado might consider themselves Republican, cows connection to RFKs health crusade is unavoidable. It appears that cows have won the position of Magas favorite animal.

Its not exactly a secret that Trump loves cows. Last year, when a child called into Fox & Friends to ask what his favorite farm animal was. Ill tell you what I love, I love cows, but if we go with Kamala, you wont have any cows anymore, he said, adding: I dont want to ruin this kids day. He made the bizarre talking point a part of his campaign stump speeches, telling crowds in North Carolina and Nevada that they want to do things like no more cows. Now that hes in office, cows remain top of mind C or, at least, their byproducts do.

Woo-woo has become moo-moo, the Atlantics Yasmin Tayag wrote this week, in an essay about Americans going all-in on cow-based wellness.

When it comes to animal products, it seems [that Maga] promotes cows the most, said Mark Kern, a professor of exercise and nutritional sciences at San Diego State University. They dont seem to say the same things for chicken or turkey.

Pigs could be a close runner-up, as lard, another animal fat, was also used regularly in cooking until the early 20th century C a bygone era Maga loves to romanticize.

It doesnt hurt that cow mania follows the trend of tradwives taking up social media space, extolling the virtues of cooking, cleaning, child-rearing and homesteading. If Trump describes cities such as DC, Los Angeles and New York as fiery bastions of anarchy, then cows represent something entirely different: images of ruddy-cheeked children toting milk pails or Sydney Sweeney in a prairie dress.

Of course, none of this is the fault of cows. Beef can be a very healthful food when eaten in moderation, Kern said. I see value in it, but that doesnt mean we should eat it at the expense of seed oils. The Maha (Make America Healthy Again) crowds obsession with beef tallow is based on a misperception that it is less refined than seed oils, Kern explained. You cant just get beef tallow from a cow, he said. You have to render that fat, which is a refining process, too.

Though there are no known benefits of consuming beef tallow, some chain restaurants such as Steak n Shake and Sweetgreen have switched to using it in the wake of RFKs endorsement.

Bart Hutchins is the chef of Butterworths, a nouveau French restaurant in DC popular with the Maga cohort. Last month, Hutchins told Axios that his kitchen goes through 500 beef bones a week serving a roasted marrow that is Steve Bannons go-to order. (Marco Rubio and the Breitbart staff apparently love it, too.)

Bone marrow contains collagen, a protein thats long been a beauty buzzword associated with reported cosmetic benefits such as skin, hair and nail health. It is a common ingredient in pills and powders that promise youthful skin, though dermatologists say this has not been definitively proven by any studies. That does not stop rich people from loving it. If you describe something with collagen, its poised to move for a certain economic class, Hutchins said.

Candice Ray, a 24-year-old dietician student who splits her time between Canada and Vermont, liked beef tallow before it was taken on as a Maha status symbol. She has slathered it on her face every night for two years, swearing it transformed her rough, bumpy complexion into a clear, clean glow.

Its done wonders for me, Ray said. My skin just looks more healthy. To be fair, Ray C an influencer who shares nontoxic living tips to her following of nearly 350,000 on Instagram C adheres to other medically dubious practices such as not washing her face.

You might assume that if you cover your face in beef tallow and go to bed without washing it off, you will end up reeking of barnyard musk. Ray disagrees. I find it smells just slightly earthy, she says.

Ray is not exactly thrilled that Maga has taken up the cause of advancing beef tallow. My choice to use it is not political whatsoever, she said. But when I tell people that I use beef tallow, they kind of look at me like, Oh, youre a natural-living girly.